Bleaching composition comprising a polyhydroxy carboxylic acid

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to bleaching composition for keratin fibres, especially human hair, comprising at least one compound with bleaching and/or highlighting effect and a specific chelating agent. The object of the present invention is a substantially water free bleaching and/or highlighting composition for keratin fibres, especially human hair, comprising at least one compound with bleaching and/or highlighting effect and a polyhydroxy carboxylic acid and/or its salt as a chelating agent. Suitable and most preferred is gluconic acid and its salts especially mono valent cation salts such as sodium, potassium and ammonium salts.

The present invention relates to bleaching composition for keratinfibres, especially human hair, comprising at least one compound withbleaching and/or highlighting effect and a specific chelating agent.

Hair bleaching is a common practice for ages. It is based on oxidativedecomposition of hair colour, which is usually done using peroxide orperoxide releasing compounds such as persulfates. Due to highlyirritating potential of these bleaching ingredients and dustiness ofpowder compositions, it is preferred to provide granular compositionwhere dust is reduced by agglomerating small particles into granulatesusing various binding agents. Most popular binding agent is mineral oil,which was the subject matter of EP 560 088 B1. Furthermore, EP 778 020A1 suggests the use of oil and wax compounds or their mixtures forpreparation of suspensions.

The bleaching of human hair customarily consists of a process with thefollowing steps: Homogenous mixing of a water-free preparation,preferably a powder, comprising at least one compound with a bleachingand/or highlighting effect, in particular a solid peroxide salt,preferably ammonium, potassium and/or sodium persulfate or earth alkaliperoxide, with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition, application ofthis composition onto the hair, and rinsing after bleaching iscompleted. It has been known for some time that use of these compoundsis effective with regard to the bleaching, but higher concentrations canlead to hair damage and/or scalp irritation. Especially hair damagingproblems are aggravated with repeatedly bleached hair. Therefore, it isand important issue that consumers are provided with effective bleachingcompositions with less damaging effect. Unfortunately due to the strongoxidative activity some level of damage must be accepted.

Therefore, aim of the present invention is to find out a composition forbleaching and/or highlighting hair which does effectively bleach hairbut causes less damage so that repeated bleaching processes may be donewithout causing ultimate hair loss.

The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found out thata bleaching composition based at least one compound with bleachingeffect and furthermore comprising a specific chelating agent effectivelybleaches hair and causes less hair damage.

Accordingly, the first object of the present invention is asubstantially water free bleaching and/or highlighting composition forkeratin fibres, especially human hair, comprising at least one compoundwith bleaching and/or highlighting effect and a polyhydroxy carboxylicacid as a chelating agent.

The second object of the present invention is the use of a substantiallywater free composition comprising at least one compound with bleachingand/or highlighting effect and a polyhydroxy carboxylic acid as achelating agent for effectively bleaching keratin fibres especiallyhuman hair.

The term bleaching composition is used to define any bleachingcomposition either water free or an aqueous i.e. after mixing withaqueous oxidizing agent.

With the term “substantially water free bleaching and/or highlightingcomposition” it is meant that no additional water is introduced into thecomposition other than bound water which may be as high as 1% of thecomposition.

According to the present invention, the composition comprises at leastone compound with bleaching and/or highlighting effect. Suitablecompounds are in general peroxides. Useful as such are in particularpersulfates such as sodium and potassium persulfate, ammoniumpersulfate, earth alkali peroxides such as magnesium peroxide, melamineperoxide or urea peroxide or phtholimidoperoxyhexanoic acid, andmixtures thereof. The proportion of peroxides is at least 5%, preferablyin the range of 20 to 80%, more preferably 25 to 60% and most preferably30 to 55% by weight, calculated to total composition prior to mixingwith oxidizing lotion.

According to the invention, the substantially water free composition canalso comprise 0.1% to 10% by weight, calculated to total compositionprior to mixing with oxidizing lotion, at least one ammonium salts.Suitable ammonium salts are ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogencarbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate,ammonium phosphates, ammonium nitrate, ammonium bromide, ammoniumiodide, ammonium thiosulfate, ammonium molybdate, ammonium vanadate,ammonium sulfamate, ammonium citrate, ammonium salicylate, ammoniumvalerate, ammonium tartarate, ammonium benzoate, ammonium acetate,ammonium formiate and ammonium lactate. Compositions may also comprisemixture or ammonium salts.

Preferred thereof are the ammonium phosphates, such as ammoniumdihydrogen phosphate, ammonium hydrogen phosphate, diammonium sodiumphosphate, sodium ammonium hydrogen phospahe, ammonium disodiumphosphate, as well as ammonium chloride, ammonium sulphate, diammoniumhydrogen citrate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonatepreferably in an amount from 0.1% to 10% by weight, calculated to totalcomposition prior to mixing with oxidizing lotion.

As known from EP 609 796 A2, the ammonium compounds can also be used assole bleaching agent in respectively higher amounts.

The total proportion of the compounds with bleaching and/or highlightingeffect preferably ranges from 5% to 85%, preferably 20% to 80%, morepreferably 25 to 70% and most preferably 30 to 60% by weight calculatedto total composition prior to mixing with oxidizing lotion.

In addition to the active component, substantially water free bleachingand/or highlighting compositions also comprise the componentscustomarily used in such compositions: In particular inert pulverulentcarrier materials, these are for example, pyrogenic silicium dioxide,starch powder, etc., alkalizing agents, such as sodium metasilicate,surface-active substances, binding agents, etc. In order to avoidrepetition, reference is made to the respective standard literature, forexample, K. Schrader and A. Domsch, “Cosmetology—Theory and Practice(2005, Verlag fur Chemische Industrie), pages 142 to 151.

Composition of the present invention comprises a polyhydroxy carboxylicacid, preferably a polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acid. Suitable and mostpreferred is gluconic acid and its salts especially mono valent cationsalts such as sodium, potassium and ammonium salts. Concentration of apolyhydroxy monocarboxylic acid, preferably gluconic acid, is in therange of 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5% and more preferably 0.1 to5% and most preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight calculated to total of thecomposition.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, substantially waterfree bleaching and highlighting composition of the present invention isin powder form and in particular in dust free powder form and comprisesoily lipophilic ingredients such as vegetable oils, for example, jojobaoil or any other; petrolatum liquid paraffins, especially paraffinumperliquidum and parafiinum subliquidum; silicone oils; hydropobic fattyacid esters such as octyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isopropylpalmitate and octyl stearate, C₁₀- to C₃₆-fatty acid triglycerides, aswell as their mixtures. In the case that the use is wished among thosethe most preferred ones are silicone oils, jojoba oil, fatty acidesters, paraffin oils, combinations of fatty acid esters and paraffinoils. Fatty acid esters and/or paraffin oils and/or silicone oils areparticularly preferred. Concentration of these oily lipophilic compoundsare used in a total amount of about 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.5to 40%, more preferably 1 to 35% and most preferably 2.5 to 30% byweight, calculated to total composition prior to mixing with oxidizinglotion.

In principal any silicone oil is useful as a lipophilic compound.Preferred are dimthicones, dimethiconols and arylated silicones as alipophilic ingredient at a concentration range of 0.1 to 50%, preferably0.5 to 40%, more preferably 1 to 35% and most preferably 2.5 to 30% byweight calculated to total composition prior to mixing with oxidizinglotion. Non-limiting suitable examples are dimethicones with variousviscosity available from Dow Corning under the trade name DC 200,arylated silicones such as phenyl methicone, phenyl trimethicone,diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, tetramethyltetraphenyl trisiloxane, triphenyl trimethicone, tetramethly tetraphenyltrisiloxane and pentaphenyl trimethyl trisiloxane.

Further, in another preferred form of the invention substantially waterfree composition for bleaching and/or highlighting hair comprisespolymers from the group consisting of cellulose polymer compounds,alginate, polysaccarides and acrylic acid polymers, preferably methylcellulose compounds, ethyl cellulose compounds, hydroxyethylcellulosecompounds, methylhydroxyethylcellulose compounds,methylhydroxypropylcellulose compounds, carboxymethyl cellulosecompounds, alginic acids, sodium alginates, ammonium alginates, calciumalginates, gum arabic, guar gum or xanthan gum, or acrylic acid polymerswith molecular weights from about 1,250,000 to 4,000,000, alone or incombination with each other. The polymers are used in a total amount of0.1 to 15%, preferably from 0.2 to 10%, and more preferably in an amountof from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight, calculated to total composition prior tomixing with oxidizing lotion.

Substantially water free bleaching and/or highlighting composition canalso comprise cationic polymers as conditioning and/or thickeningagents. Those are cationic cellulose type polymers know as Polymer JRtype from Amerchol such as Polyquaternium 10 or cationic guar gum knownwith trade name Jaguar from Rhöne-Poulenc and chemically for exampleGuar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Furthermore, chitosan and chitincan also be included in the compositions as cationic natural polymers.

Furthermore, it has been found suitable those cationic polymers knownwith their CTFA category name Polyquaternium. Typical examples of thosePolyquaternium 1, Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 4, Polyquaternium 5,Polyquaternium 6, Polyquaternium 7, Polyquaternium 8, Polyquaternium 9,Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium 11, Polyquaternium 12, Polyquaternium13, Polyquaternium 14, Polyquaternium 15, Polyquaternium 16,Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium 19, Polyquaternium20, Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 24, Polyquaternium 27,Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 29, Polyquaternium 30, Polyquaternium31, Polyquaternium 32, Polyquaternium 33, Polyquaternium 34,Polyquaternium 35 and Polyquaternium 36, Polyquaternium-37,Polyquaternium 39, Polyquaternium 42, Polyquaternium 43, Polyquaternium44, Polyquaternium 45, Polyquaternium 46, Polyquaternium 47,Polyquaternium 48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium 50, Polyquaternium51, Polyquaternium 52, Polyquaternium 53, Polyquaternium 54,Polyquaternium 55, Polyquaternium 56, Polyquaternium 57, Polyquaternium58, Polyquaternium 59, Polyquaternium 60, Polyquaternium 61,Polyquaternium 62, Polyquaternium 63, Polyquaternium 64, Polyquaternium65, Polyquaternium 66, Polyquaternium 67, Polyquaternium 68,Polyquaternium 69, Polyquaternium-70, Polyquaternium 71, Polyquaternium72, Polyquaternium 73, Polyquaternium 74, Polyquaternium 75,Polyquaternium 76, Polyquaternium 77, Polyquaternium 78,Polyquaternium-79, Polyquaternium 80, Polyquaternium 81, Polyquaternium82, Polyquaternium 83, Polyquaternium 84, Polyquaternium 85,Polyquaternium 86 and Polyquaternium 87.

Typical concentration range for any of the cationic conditionersmentioned above can be 0.1-7.5% by weight, preferably 0.3-5% by weightand more preferably 0.5-2.5% by weight, calculated to total compositionprior to mixing with an oxidizing agent.

Substantially water free bleaching and/or highlighting composition ofthe present invention may comprise at least one dialkyl carbonate ofgeneral formula

R₃₀ OC(O)OR₃₁

where R₃₀ and R₃₁ are independent from each other linear or branchedsaturated alkyl chains with 6 to 22 C atoms.

Preferred at least one dialkyl carbonate is selected from di(caprylyl)carbonate and di(ethylhexyl) carbonate.

Concentration of at least dialkyl carbonate may vary between 0.1 and 30%by weight calculated to total composition prior to mixing with anoxidizing agent.

Substantially water free bleaching and/or highlighting compositions ofthe present invention can comprise synthetic mica coated with metaloxide or oxides having a volume particle size distribution in the rangeof 1 to 750 μm. Use of synthetic mica coated with metal oxide or oxidesmainly in decorative cosmetics is disclosed in an international patentapplication of Sun Chemical Corporation published with a number WO2005/065632 A1. In the document synthetic mica and coated synthetic micawith at least one metal oxide or oxides is disclosed in detail. Thecontent of the document is included herewith by reference.

Suitable metal oxide or oxides for coating synthetic mica are titaniumdioxide, chromium oxide, ferric oxide or mixtures thereof. In thepresent invention the preferred is synthetic mica coated with titaniumdioxide. Such materials are commercially available from Sun ChemicalCorporation and Merck (Timiron Synwhite 40) and known with their INCInames Synthetic Fluorphologopite

The volume particle size distribution of synthetic mica coated with ametal oxide or oxides is in the range of 1 to 750 μm, preferably 1 to250 μm, more preferably 1 to 100 μm and most preferably 5 to 95 μm. Theparticle sizes referred are relating to the volume particle sizedistribution meaning that particles found in the coated synthetic micahaving volume particle size in the given ranges.

Concentration of synthetic mica coated with at least metal oxide oroxides is from 0.01 to 20%, preferably 0.1 to 15%, more preferably 0.25to 10% and most preferably 0.5 to 55% by weight calculated to totalcomposition prior to mixing with an oxidizing agent.

Interestingly, it has been observed that the mixture of substantiallywater free powder composition comprising at least one bleaching and/orhighlighting agent, at least one magnesium salt and synthetic micacoated with at least one metal oxide or oxides with a particle size asmentioned above and a composition comprising at least one oxidizingagent look very homogeneous, shiny and easy to apply onto hair than amixture which does not comprise synthetic mica.

The avarage particle size of the dust free bleaching powder compositionaccording to the invention is generally range below 1 mm, preferablybelow 500 μm, more preferably less than 400 μm and in particular about25 to about 100 μm, thus ensuring excellent processing capability, i.e.miscibility with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution prior toapplication onto human hair.

Bleaching and/or highlighting compositions of the present inventioncomprises one or more magnesium and/or calcium salt in order to preventheating up and/or foaming when mixed with an aqueous compositioncomprising at least one oxidizing agent. Both organic and inorganicsalts are suitable for the purpose of the present invention. Inorganicsalts are most preferred. Suitable magnesium salts are magnesiumaluminium borosilicate, magnesium aspartate, magnesium borate, magnesiumbromate, magnesium bromide, magnesium benzoate, magnesium acetate,magnesium carbonate, magnesium citrate, magnesium clorate, magnesiumdihydrogen phosphate, magnesium fluoride, magnesium formate, magnesiumhydroxide, magnesium iodide, magnesium lactate, magnesium mandalate,magnesium monofluorophosphate, magnesium oxalate, magnesium oxide,magnesium perborate, magnesium phosphate, magnesium propionate,magnesium pyrophosphate, magnesium salicylate, magnesium silicate, andmagnesium tartarate.

Suitable calcium salts are calcium aluminium borosilicate, calciumaspartate, calcium benzoate, calcium acetate, calcium carbonate, calciumcitrate, calcium dihydrogen phosphate, calcium fluoride, calciumhydroxide, calcium lactate, calcium monofluorophosphate, calcium oxide,calcium phosphate, calcium propionate, calcium pyrophosphate, calciumsulphate, calcium nitrate, calcium salicylate, calcium silicate,hydrate, calcium tartarate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium chloride,calcium iodide and calcium bromide.

Concentration of one or more magnesium and/or calcium salt in thecompositions of the present invention is between 0.1 and 20%, preferablybetween 0.5 and 15%, more preferably between 0.75 and 10% and mostpreferably between 1 and 7.5% by weight calculated to total compositionprior to mixing with oxidizing lotion.

Belaching compositions can comprise at least one diamide compound.Preferred diamide compounds are according to the general structure

wherein R₁ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chainwith 1 to 12C atoms which may be substituted with hydroxy and/or alkoxygroups, preferably R₁ is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturatedalkyl chain with 1 to 12C atoms which may be substituted by 1 to 3substituents selected from a hydroxy group and C1 to C6 alkoxy group,more preferably R₁ is a unsubstituted alkyl group with 1 to 12C atoms,and alkyl group with 2 to 12C atoms substituted by one or two hydroxylgroups, by one alkoxy group with 1 to 6C atoms or by one hydroxyl andone alkoxy group with 2 to 6C atoms, R₂ is linear or branched alkylchain with 1 to 5C atoms, preferably linear or branched alkyl chain with2 to 5C atoms and more preferably an alkyl chain with 2 to 3C atoms, andR₃ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to22C atoms, preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylchain with 11 to 22C atoms.

Preferred individual diamide compounds are the ones according to theformula A to G.

Particularly preferred diamide compound is the compound F which is bis(methoxypropylamido) isodocosane and commercially available from KaoCorporation—Japan.

Concentration of diamide compounds in the compositions of the presentinvention is in the range of 0.001 to 5%, preferably 0.002 to 3% morepreferably 0.005 to 2% and most preferably 0.01 to 1% by weightcalculated to total composition.

The powder composition can be produced with processes such as by mixingthe powdery ingredients first and subsequently adding lipophilicingredient(s) and by fluidized bed method. In fluidized bed method,powder ingredients are mixed in a vessel and made flowing by inlettingan air flow which may be heated (preferred when using waxy component) orcarried out at room (ambient) temperature and while the powder mixfreely “flowing” lipophilic ingredinet and/or mixture with any otherliquid component is sprayed from a nozzle mounted above the powderbatch.

The bleaching and/or highlighting composition of the present inventionis mixed prior to application with an oxidizing lotion comprising atleast one oxidizing agent. The oxidizing agents suitable are hydrogenperoxide, urea peroxide, melamin peroxide or perborate salts. The mostpreferred is hydrogen peroxide. Such composition comprises 2 to 12% byweight at least one oxidizing agent preferably hydrogen peroxide and iseither a solution or in the form of an emulsion. The mixing ratio isvery much dependent on the level of bleaching effect targeted, i.e. thelevel of highlighting and/or bleaching and darkness of hair beforebleaching, and can be adjusted accordingly by hair dressers. However,generally mixing ratio is within the range of 0.5 to 4 by weight(bleaching composition to oxidizing composition), preferably in therange of 1 to 2 by weight.

The pH of the ready to use product, mixture of bleaching composition andoxidizing lotion, is in the range of 8 to 12, in particular between 9and 11.

In another preferred form of the present invention a third compositionis mixed into the mixture of water free bleaching and/or highlightingcomposition and oxidizing composition. The third composition ispreferably an aqueous composition and can be in form of a solution,thickened composition, gel, emulsion or a suspension. It may even be aproduct dispensed from a pressurised contained including any one of theabove mentioned type of preparations.

The third composition preferably comprises at least one hairconditioning compound. Hair conditioning compound is preferably selectedfrom non-ionic substances, oil or oily substances, cationic compounds.

Non-ionic conditioning agents can be polyethyleneglycol mono or di fattyacid esters having general formula

R₄ CO(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)OH or

R₄CO(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)OOCR₅

wherein R₄ and R₅ are independent from each other saturated, unsaturatedor branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7 to 21C atoms and n istypically 2-100. Suitable cationic conditioning compounds are thosecarrying a quaternary ammonium group or a cationizable group andselected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants and quaternaryammonium or amino silicones. Suitable cationic polymers are those ofbest known with their CTFA category name Polyquaternium as disclosedabove for water free bleaching and/or highlighting composition as wellas those polymers known with their CTFA category name Quaternium anddisclosed above for water free bleaching and/or highlightingcomposition.

The third composition and also water free bleaching composition of thepresent invention can comprise an organopolysiloxane wherein at leastone silicium atom is linked to an alkylene group having a hetero-atom,in particular a nitrogen atom, with a poly-(N-acyl alkyleneimine) unitsof the formula

wherein n is a number from 1 to 5 and R₆ is hydrogen, a C₁-C₁₂-alkyl orcycloalkyl, aralkyl or aryl group as a conditioning agent. Preferredorganopolysiloxane polymers are those of the type disclosed in EP-A 640643, in particular optionally quaternized aminoalkyl, in particularaminopropyl dimethyl polysiloxane/polyethyl oxazoline copolymers of theformula

wherein m and n each are numbers from 20 to 10,000, in particular 50 to7,000, especially 100 to 5,000, x is a number between 1 and 5,preferably 3, and y is a number from 5 to 30, R₇ is a C₁-C₁₂-alkyl oraryl group, in particular a methyl, ethyl or benzyl group, and Y⁻ is ananion.

Especially suited are the organopolysiloxanes disclosed under the termsA-1, A-2 and A-3 on pages 12 to 13 of EP-A 640 643. The proportion ofgraft copolymers in the hair colouring compositions according to theinvention ranges from 0.05% to 5%, preferably 0.1% to 2.5%, inparticular 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total compositionprior to mixing with oxidizing and bleaching and/or highlightingcomposition.

Cationic surfactants suitable for the third composition of the presentinvention are according to the general formula

where R₉ is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight alkyl chainwith 8-22C atoms or

R₁₃CONH(CH₂)_(n)

where R₁₃ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight alkyl chainwith 7-21C atoms and n has value of 1-4,

or

R₁₄COO(CH₂)_(n)

where R₁₄ is saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight alkyl chainwith 7-21C atoms and n has value of 1-4, and

R₁₀ is unsaturated or saturated, branched or straight alkyl chain with1-22C atoms or

R₁₃CONH(CH₂)_(n)

or

R₁₄COO(CH₂)_(n)

where R₁₃, R₁₄ and n are same as above.

R₁₁ and R₁₂ are lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X isanion such as chloride, bromide, methosulfate.

Typical examples of those ingredients are cetyltrimethyl ammoniumchloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride,stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride, dioleoylethyl dimethyl ammoniummethosulfate, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

Amido amines may as well be used as a conditioning cationic surfactantin the compositions of the present invention. Typical non-limitingexample is stearamidopropylamine known with a trade name Tego Amid S18from Degussa and behenamidopropyl dimethyl amine available under thetrade name Amidet APA 22 from Kao Chemicals.

Oily substances are selected from such as silicone oils, volatile ornon-volatile, natural and synthetic oils. Among silicone oils those canbe added to the compositions include dimethicone, dimethiconol,polydimethylsiloxane, DC fluid ranges from Dow Corning, arylatedsilicones such as phenyl trimethicone or any other silicone with up to 5aryl, preferably phenyl, group in its molecule, natural oils such asolive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, wheatgerm oil, ricinus oil and thesynthetic oils, such as mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, palmitate,stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyllaurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, myristyl myristate and oleylerucate.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise furtherconditioning substances such as protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides,e.g., keratin hydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type“Nutrilan®” or elastin hydrolyzates, as well as also in particular plantprotein hydrolyzates, optionally, cationized protein hydrolyzates, e.g.,“Gluadin®”.

Typical concentration range for any of those conditioners, non-ioniccompounds, oil or oil like substances, cationic polymers, silicon oiland derivatives and cationic surfactants is in the range of 0.01-10% byweight, preferably 0.01-7.5% by weight, more preferably 0.05-5% and mostpreferably 0.1-5% by weight calculated to the total composition prior tomixing with oxidizing and bleaching and/or highlighting composition.

In the case that the third composition is in the form of an emulsion, itcomprises as an emulsion base at least one fatty alcohol or mixture offatty alcohols with the chain length of 14 to 22C atoms. Examples tosuitable fatty alcohols, without limiting the choice, are myristylalcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetostearylalcohol. The most preferred is cetostearyl alcohol well known with itstrade name Lanette O or as Lanette N in mixture with sodium cetearylsulfate from Cognis.

The concentration of fatty alcohol(s) is in the range from 0.5 to 20%,preferably 1 to 15% by weight, calculated to total composition prior tomixing with oxidizing and bleaching and/or highlighting composition.

The third composition according to present invention comprisessurfactants selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric (or zwiterionic)and/or cationic surfactants or their mixtures as emulsifier orsolubilizer. Cationic surfactants are as well used as hair conditionersas mentioned above.

Anionic surfactants suitable within the scope of the invention are inprincipal known from the cleansing compositions

These are anionic surfactants of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate andalkyl phosphate type, for example, the known C₁₀-C₁₈-alkyl sulfates, andin particular the respective ether sulfates, for example, C₁₂₋C₁₄-alkylether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to 4 ethyleneoxide groups in the molecule, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acidamide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfatation offatty acid alkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof, as well as thesalts of long-chain mono- and dialkyl phosphates.

Additional anionic surfactants useful within the scope of the inventionare α-olefin sulfonates or the salts thereof, and in particular alkalisalts of sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, for example, the disodium saltof monooctyl sulfosuccinate and alkali salts of long-chain monoalkylethoxysulfosuccinates.

Suitable surfactants of the carboxylate type are alkyl polyethercarboxylic acids and the salts thereof as well as alkyl amido polyethercarboxylic acids and salts thereof. Such products have been known forsome time and are on the market, for example, under the trade name“AKYPO®” and “AKYPO-SOFT® ”.

Further suitable anionic surfactants are also C₈-C₂₂-acylaminocarboxylic acids or the water-soluble salts thereof. Especiallypreferred is N-lauroyl glutamate, in particular as sodium salt, as wellas, for example, N-lauroyl sarcosinate, N-C₁₂-C₁₈-acyl asparaginic acid,N-myristoyl sarcosinate, N-oleoyl sarcosinate, N-lauroyl methylalanine,N-lauroyl lysine and N-lauroyl aminopropyl glycine, preferably in formof the water-soluble alkali or ammonium, in particular the sodium saltsthereof, preferably in admixture with the above-named anionicsurfactants.

It is also possible to use mixtures of several anionic surfactants.

Further surfactants in the third composition according to the inventionare nonionic surfactants which are one of the preferred emulsifyingsurfactant within the scope of present invention. Especially suitednonionic surfactants are, for example, long-chain fatty acid mono- anddialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid mono- or diethanolamide andmyristic fatty acid mono or diethanolamide, stearic acid mono ordiethanolamide. Further nonionic surfactants suited are alkylpolyglucosides with an alkyl group of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and with 1to 5 glucoside units. Further additionally useful nonionic surfactantsare, for example, the various sorbitan esters, such as polyethyleneglycol sorbitan stearic acid ester, fatty acid polyglycol esters orpoly-condensates of ethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on themarket, for example, under the trade name “Pluronics®”, as well as fattyalcohol ethoxylates. Further nonionic surfactants preferred in thedyeing compositions according to invention are C₁₀-C₂₂-fatty alcoholethoxylates. Especially suited are C₁₀-C₂₂-fatty alcohol ethers, thealkyl polyglycol ethers known by the generic terms “Laureth”,“Myristeth”, “Oleth”, “Ceteth”, “Deceth”, “Steareth” and “Ceteareth”according to the CTFA nomenclature, including addition of the number ofethylene oxide molecules, e.g., “Laureth-16”: The average degree ofethoxylation thereby ranges between about 2.5 and about 25, preferablyabout 10 and about 20.

As further surfactant component, the dyeing compositions according tothe invention can also contain amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.Useful as such are in particular the various known betaines such asalkyl betaines, fatty acid amidoalkyl betaines and sulfobetaines, forexample, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine; long-chain alkyl amino acids, suchas cocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionateand -acetate have also proven suitable.

Cationic surfactants mentioned above as conditioner and especially thosewith single long alkyl chain such as cetrimonium chloride andbehentrimonium chloride are also suitable emulsifiers according topresent invention.

The concentration of one or more emulsifiers in the third compositionsis in the range from 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight,calculated to total composition prior to mixing with oxidizing andbleaching and/or highlighting composition.

The third composition according to the present invention can containorganic solvent. Examples of such organic solvents are benzyloxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxy ethanol, phenoxy isopropanol, methylphenoxy ethanol, benzyl glycerol, N-benzyl formide, N-methylpyrrolidone, N-ethyl pyrrolidone, cinnamyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol,p-methyl benzyl alcohol, butyl cellosolve, methyl carbitol, ethylcarbitol, propyl carbitol, butyl carbitol, diethyleneglycol, diethylether and dipropyleneglycol diethyl ether. Typically the concentrationof those solvents can be in the range from 0.5% to 10%, preferably0.5-5% by weight calculated to the total composition prior to mixingwith oxidizing and bleaching and/or highlighting composition.

The third composition can contain one or more thickening agents. Thethickening agents disclosed for water free bleaching and/or highlightingcompositions are also suitable for the third composition at the abovegiven concentration ranges.

Another preferred compound in the composition of present inventionespecially in bleaching and/or highlighting composition and in the thirdcomposition is ceramide type of compounds according to general formula

wherein R₂₀ and R2₁ are independent from each other alkyl- or alkenylgroup with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R₂₂ is alkyl or hydroxyl alkyl with 1to 4 carbon atoms group and n is a number between 1 to 6, preferably 2or 3. Preferred compound according to the above chemical structure iscetyl-PG-hydroxyethylpalmitamide. Concentration of ceramide type ofcompounds ranges from 0.01 to 2%, preferably 0.01 to 1% by weightcalculated to total composition prior to mixing with oxidizing andbleaching and/or highlighting composition.

Another preferred compound in the composition of present inventionespecially in bleaching and/or highlighting composition and in the thirdcomposition may be comprised is ubichinone type of compounds accordingto general formula

wherein n is a number from 1 to 10. Concentration of ubichinone can varybetween 0.001% and 10% by weight, calculated to the total compositionprior to mixing with oxidizing and bleaching and/or highlightingcomposition.

The third composition may as well comprise UV filters of oil soluble,non-ionic, ones and/or as well those of water soluble and mainly ofanionic character. Non-limiting examples are Benzophenone-1Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-7, Benzophenone-6,Benzophenone-8, octylmethoxy cinnamate, homosalat to those of oilsoluble ones and Benzophenone-4, benzophenone-9 to those anionic watersoluble ones. It should be noted that the other UV filters of oil andwater soluble ones should as well be possible to combine. Concentrationof UV filters is in the range of 0.05 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% andmore preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight calculated to total compositionprior to mixing with oxidizing and bleaching and/or highlightingcomposition.

Conditioning agents preferred are the ones mentioned above as oilylipophilic ingredients such as natural, synthetic and mineral oils andcationic compounds such as quaternary ammonium surfactants and cationicpolymer disclosed above as well.

According to the preferred embodiment of the present invention, thethird composition comprises at least one direct dye. Suitable directdyes are anionic, cationic and non-ionic nitro dyes.

Suitable anionic direct dyes in aqueous composition are Acid Black 1,Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, AcidBlue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10,Acid Red 1, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155,Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow1, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1,D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10,D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 33, D&CViolet 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&CRed 2, FD&C Red 40, FD&C Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue 1, FoodBlack 1, Food Black 2, Disperse Black 9 and Disperse Violet 1 and theiralkali metal salts such as sodium, potassium. Among those, the mostpreferred anionic dyestuffs are Acid Red 52, DC Violet 2, DC Red 33, DCOrange 4, DC Red 27 and DC Yellow 10.

Suitable cationic dyes in aqueous composition are in principal thoseavailable on the market for cosmetic hair colouring applications. Forthis purpose, special reference is made to the PCT application WO95/15144 of Ciba-Geigy AG. Some examples to those are Basic Blue 6,Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99,Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, BasicGreen 1, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12 Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, BasicViolet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31.The most preferred ones are Basic red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and BasicOrange 31 sold by CIBA.

Additionally, the aqueous compositions of the present invention maycomprise neutral dyes (HC dyes), so called nitro dyes for shadingpurposes. Some examples to those are: HC Blue No. 2, HC Blue No. 4, HCBlue No. 5, HC Blue No. 6, HC Blue No. 7, HC Blue No. 8, HC Blue No. 9,HC Blue No. 10, HC Blue No. 11, HC Blue No. 12, HC Blue No. 13, HC BrownNo. 1, HC Brown No. 2, HC Green No. 1, HC Orange No. 1, HC Orange No. 2,HC Orange No. 3, HC Orange No. 5, HC Red BN, HC Red No. 1, HC Red No. 3,HC Red No. 7, HC Red No. 8, HC Red No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11,HC Red No. 13, HC Red No. 54, HC Red No. 14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No.1, HC Violet No. 2, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No. 5,HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No. 8, HC Yellow No. 9, HCYellow No. 10, HC Yellow No. 11, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Yellow No. 13, HCYellow No. 14, HC Yellow No. 15, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol,picramic acid, 1,2-Diamino-4-nitrobenzol, 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol,3-Nitro-4-aminophenol, 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzol and2-hydroxyethylpicramic acid.

Plant dyestuffs can also be used alone or in combination with syntheticdirect-acting dyestuffs, for example henna (red or black), alkanna root,laccaic acid, indigo, logwood powder, madder root and rhubarb powder,etc.

From the above disclosed direct dyes the preferred are cationic andnitro dyes and most preferred are cationic direct dyes.

According to the invention, the third composition comprises one or moredirect dye at a concentration of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight calculated to thetotal composition prior to mixing with bleaching and oxidizingcompositions mentioned above. The third composition can also comprisemixture of several direct dyes i.e. an anionic, a cationic and/or anonionic ones. In such a case the dyes may be mixed at any ratio witheach other.

The above mentioned direct dyes of cationic, anionic and nonioniccharacter can also be added into the water free bleaching and/orhighlighting composition at the concentration given in the aboveparagraph. The direct dyes of different characters can certainly bemixed as well.

pH of the aqueous third composition of the present invention variesbetween 2 and 12, preferably 3-10, more preferably 4 to 8. pH isadjusted to the required pH by using monoethanolamine, triethanolamine,ammonia or its salts with acids such as ammonium chloride, ammoniumsulphate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium nitrate, orusing alkaline solutions such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxideand their respective salts with the known acids.

It should be noted that pH of the mixture of bleaching and/orhighlighting composition, third composition and oxidizing lotion, readyto use composition, is in the range of 8 to 12, in particular between 9and 11.

The mixing ratio of the bleaching and/or highlighting composition tothird composition, depending on the colour result to be achieved variesbetween 10:1 to 1:1, preferably 8:1 to 2:1 and more preferably 5:1 to3:1, all by weight, which may further mixed with an oxidizing lotion ata weight ratio of preferably 1:1. The above ratios are valid when thirdcomposition does not comprise direct dye. In case direct dye iscontained in the third composition preferred mixing ratio is 1:1 whichthan mixed with oxidizing lotion.

Accordingly, further object of the present invention is a kit forbleaching and/or highlighting keratin fibres especially human haircomprising

a—a water free composition comprising at least one compound withbleaching and/or highlighting effect and a compound comprising at leasttwo amide bonds in its structure.

b—an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, and

c—optionally, a third composition preferably an aqueous compositioncomprising at least one hair conditioning agent and/or a direct dye.

Further object of the present invention is kit for bleaching and/orhighlighting keratin fibres especially human hair comprising

a—a water free composition comprising at least one compound withbleaching and/or highlighting effect

b—an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent

c—a third composition preferably an aqueous composition comprising atleast one hair conditioning agent

wherein one or more of the three compositions comprises a compoundcomprising at least two amide bonds in its structure. Preferablycompositions a and b and more preferably all three compositions comprisea compound comprising at least two amide bonds in its structure.

Hair bleaching process is carried out as usual using the compositions ofthe present invention. Briefly, the mixture of water free composition,oxidizing lotion and optionally third compositions is prepared andapplied onto dry hair and processed for 1 to 45 min and rinsed of fromhair and shampooed, if necessary.

Process for bleaching hair wherein a substantially water freecomposition of the present invention is mixed homogeneously with anaqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent andoptionally a third composition comprising at least one at least one hairconditioning agent and/or a direct dye and applied onto hair and afterprocessing 1 to 45 min rinsed off from hair.

Although the preferred process for dyeing and bleaching is a single stepprocess, two-step processes may as well be used with the compositions ofthe present invention. One of the ways of carrying out in two steps isthat in the first step, bleaching and/or highlighting composition of thepresent invention is firstly mixed with an oxidizing agent and appliedonto hair and left 5 to 20 min and afterwards without rinsing off thethird composition comprising at least one direct dye is applied ontohair and additionally processed for 5 to 30 min and rinsed off from hairand shampooed, if necessary.

In another way of carrying out the invention in two step is that in thefirst step, bleaching and/or highlighting composition of the presentinvention is firstly mixed with an oxidizing agent and applied onto hairand left 5 to 45 min and afterwards rinsed off from hair andsubsequently in the second step dyeing composition is applied onto hairand additionally processed for 5 to 45 min and rinsed off from hair andshampooed, if necessary.

The composition of the present invention can contain additionalingredients such as preservatives, chelating agents, fragrance andsubstances customarily used in cosmetic bleaching and colouringcompositions of keratin fibres, especially hair.

The invention is illustrated with the following examples, but notlimited to.

EXAMPLE 1

Water Free Bleaching and/or Highlighting Compositions

Potassium persulfate 40% by weight Sodium persulfate 5 Sodium carbonate1 Sodium silicate 10 Diatomaceous Earth 43 Gluconic acid 1

The above composition is prepared by combining all powder componentstogether and mixing until homogeneity in a suitable mixer.

The water free bleaching composition was mixed with an oxidizingcomposition of the following composition at a weight ratio of water freepowder to oxidizing lotion 1:2.

Oxidizing Lotion

Hydrogen peroxide 9.00 (% by wt.) Phosphoric acid 0.50 Disodium hydrogenphosphate 0.10 Salicylic acid 0.10 Water ad 100.00

The composition was applied onto hair and processed at room temperaturefor 30 min and rinsed off and hair was dried. The hair was homogeneouslybleached.

EXAMPLE 2

Bleaching/Highlighting Powder Composition

Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.00% by weight Cellulose gum 3.00 TetrasodiumEDTA 2.00 Sodium carbonate 1.00 Ammonium persulfate 21.00 Potassiumpersulfate 46.60 Sodium metasilicate 10.00 Diatomaceous Earth 13.40Polyquaternium - 10 0.50 Sodium Gluconate 1.10

The above composition was tested in a half side test for its performanceon bleaching with 10 volunteers having shoulder length hair. As acomparative composition a composition without Sodium Gluconate but with15.5% by weight diatomaceous earth was prepared. Bleaching compositionwas prepared by mixing above water free composition with oxidizinglotion of example 1 at a weight ratio of 1:2 (powder to lotion).Approximately 30 g of each was applied onto hair and processed for 30min at ambient temperature. Afterwards bleaching composition was rinsedoff from hair and shampooed ones and dried with a hair drier.

It was observed that the half side bleached with a composition accordingto present invention was homogeneously bleached, better in combing,softer and had more shine. Volunteers were of the opinion that it wasmore natural upon touching than the half side bleached with comparativecomposition.

EXAMPLE 3

Bleaching and colouring in a single process was carried out using thebleaching composition of example 1, dyeing composition according to thecomposition below and an oxidizing lotion composition of example 1,however with 6% hydrogen peroxide content instead of 9%.

The Third Composition with Dyestuff

% by weight Cocamide MEA 4.00 Cetearyl alcohol 10.00 Tegin P 1.40Propylene Glycol 2.40 Oleic acid 3.00 Coenzyme Q10 0.10 Ammoniumchloride 0.50 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.50Polysilicone-9 0.20 Pentaphenyl trimethyl trisiloxane 5.00 Cetyl PGhydroxyethyl palmitamide 0.10 Basic red 51 0.50 Water to 100

The bleaching composition of example 2, dyeing composition of above andoxidizing lotion of example 1 were mixed at a weight ratio of 1:1:1 andwas applied onto parts of hair (streak) and left 30 min at 40° C. andrinsed off with water and shampooed. Intensive highlighted red streakswere obtained.

Similar results were observed when other cationic, anionic and/ornonionic nitro dyes mentioned in the description are used instead of thecationic dye in the example.

EXAMPLE 4

The third composition

Cetrimonium chloride 1.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.0 Cetearyl alcohol 5.0Hydrolysed silk 1.0 Fragrance q.s. Preservative q.s. Citric acid q.s. topH 5.0 Water to 100

Water free bleaching composition of example 2 is mixed with abovecomposition and with oxidizing lotion of example 1 at a weight ratio of1:1.9:0.1 (water free composition: oxidizing lotion: the thirdcomposition). The resulting composition was tested against a bleachingcomposition of Example 2. It was observed that the half side bleachedwith a composition mixed with third composition is much more caredinterms of combability, shine and softness.

EXAMPLE 5

Bleaching/Highlighting Powder Composition

Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.40% by weight Cellulose gum 3.20 Xanthan gum0.30 Tetrasodium EDTA 2.00 Sodium carbonate 1.00 Ammonium persulfate21.00 Potassium persulfate 46.60 Sodium metasilicate 10.20 Corn starch1.10 Diatomaceous Earth 11.40 Potassium gluconate 0.50Bis(methoxypropylamido)isodocosane 0.20 Polyquaternium - 10 0.10 Silica*1.00 Synthetic fluorphologopite** 1.00 *Aerosil 380 **Syntheticfluorphologopite used is commercially available from Merck with aparticle size distribution in the range of 5 to 45 μm.

The above composition was produced in the same way as in example 1 andalso used in the same way as described under Example 1. When testedagainst a composition without potassium gluocnate it was found out hairfelt less damaged upon touching which was supported by bettercombability, better shine and softer feel.

1. A substantially water free bleaching and/or highlighting composition for keratin fibres comprising at least one compound with bleaching and/or highlighting effect and a polyhydroxy carboxylic acid and/or its salt as a chelating agent.
 2. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the at least one compound with bleaching effect is present at a concentration of 5% by weight, calculated to total composition prior to mixing with oxidizing lotion.
 3. The composition according to claim 1 further comprising at least one ammonium salt.
 4. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the chelating agent is gluconic acid and/or its salts.
 5. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the chelating agent is present at a concentration in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight calculated to the total of the composition.
 6. The composition according to claim 1 further comprising silicone oil and/or mineral oil and/or natural oil as lipophilic ingredient.
 7. The composition according to claim 6 wherein the at least one lipophilic ingredient is present at a concentration of 1 to 50% by weight calculated to total composition prior to mixing with oxidizing lotion.
 8. The composition according to claim 1 further comprising a polymer.
 9. The composition according to claim 8 wherein the polymer is a one cationic polymer.
 10. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a compound with two amide bonds in its structure is a compound according to general structure

wherein R₁ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to 12 carbon atoms which may be substituted with hydroxy and/or alkoxy groups, R₂ is linear or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and R₃ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
 11. The composition according to claim 1 further comprising at least one synthetic mica coated with metal oxide or oxides having a volume particle size distribution in the range of 1 to 750 μm.
 12. The composition according to claim 1 comprising one or more calcium and/or magnesium salt.
 13. The composition according to claim 1 comprising at least one alkalizing agent.
 14. A kit for bleaching and/or highlighting keratin fibres comprising a—a composition according to claim 1, b—an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent; and c—optionally, a third composition comprising at least one hair conditioning agent and or a direct dye.
 15. A process for bleaching hair comprising homogeneously mixing a composition according to claim 1 with an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent and optionally a third composition comprising at least one hair conditioning agent and/or a direct dye, applying the composition onto hair, processing for 1 to 45 min, and rinsing the composition from hair. 